"CAR_IS_MI" (car-is-mi)
03/28/2016 at 01:36 • Filed to: None
3
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"CAR_IS_MI" (car-is-mi)
03/28/2016 at 01:36 • Filed to: None | 3
| 19 |
I recently posted about my purchasing of a low cost S63 AMG with the loved but dreaded M156 engine, and its recent turn towards demise.
So since today was Easter and I have no family within 2,800 miles of here I decided to take some time and work on the cars.
The first part was easy. Removal of the air intake system was a few screws and a handful of push clips.
Then came the daunting task of fitting a T30 torx between the strut tower and the valve cover (I also removed the coils, sparks, and harness prior).
Now having prior built motors of all kinds and worked in the tuning industry for some time, I was expecting to pull the cover, find 8 studs along the outside of the head, and have the ability to inspect these studs for wear to determine which studs were the cause of my burning-coolant-sensation...
Instead I found this...
A design like none I had seen before. Beltless cam gears with a dual wheel setup (look closely at the pic, each cam has a set of 2 gears, one thin, one thick), and all the studs are buried under the cams.
In order to complete this job I would need to remove the cams, and then swap each stud individually.
While this may not sound like a daunting task, and up to this point it is not, it is the re-assembly that is the “fun” part; and as you may guess, it has something to do with this funny cam setup.
To start, the cams must be taken out in a certain manner, if not, the little gear might move and the springs inside the contraption (technical term) may pop out, then you are SOL. If you successfully survive removal, installation must be preformed in such a manner that the cams are at “x”angle with the engine at 40 degrees past TDC (or something like that).
There are about 400 little things that, if not done precisely, can turn your fancy hand built motor into tin cans and marbles. Now I’m a fairly technical guy, but what I have found from instructions online are written by 3rd party DIY’ers or possibly ex-AMG techs, but nothing directly from the horses ass, so exact directions are a bit... fuzzy.
Ultimately I decided it would be in my best interest to pay someone else to do this, someone certified and warrantied by AMG, so that way, should my low priced AMG suddenly become an expensive piece of lawn art, I can let someone else pay to fix it.
Berang
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 01:47 |
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Germans like this kind of stuff.
PetarVN, GLI Guy, now with stupid power
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 01:53 |
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so should i be changing my username from “...needs an M156" to “...needs an M156 and a free tech”?
Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 02:09 |
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Hi. V10 BMW owner here. I started getting the chills once I looked close enough to see the toothing on the gears and started getting chills that you were going to find something spring loaded holding it all together the hard way. Back away slowly. They hand built it; they can hand re-build it. That spring that shoots across the garage will never be found. *whew*
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 02:43 |
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Google M156 cam tool. The setup is super easy. The tools lock the cams into the correct position, there is no adjustment possible so long as the crank is at 40. The tool for the adjuster sprocket can be removed, the installed on the next cam, once the cam is out. Though it is significantly easier and faster to have at least two adjuster locks. The whole procedure goes something like this (assuming valve covers and cylinder head front covers are already off):
1: set crank to 40
2: install adjuster lock on back of sprocket/adjuster. note: some of the early ones use small bolts instead of an actual tool, this is made apparent by threads in the locking hole on the back of the adjuster
3: install cam hold-down/locking tools
4. remove the adjuster with the lock installed
5. remove that cam and repeat 1-5 for remaining cams. note: there is a friction washer installed between the adjuster and the cam, do not lose this
6. install cams and adjusters in reverse order but install adjuster bolts only tight enough that pulse wheels (the sheet metal star wheel thing on the front of the adjuster) can still be turned. note: ensure that friction washers are in place
7. ensuring that cam hold downs are installed at the front and rear of the cams on one head, install the pulse wheel timing tool (aluminum plate thing with dowels sticking out of either side, there are marks to indicate how it goes, and it only goes one way), then torque the adjuster and repeat on the other side
8. rotate the crank two revolutions by hand back again to 40 and verify timing with the pulse wheel took and the cam hold downs
Seriously, timing a 156 is so easy I would let my apprentice do it (I would watch and verify the whole thing of course) and I don’t let him inspect brakes by himself. If you decide to get the tools and take a stab at it I could probably procure some screenshots from the factory instructions, but on top of what I’ve already told you it would really only add some crappy pictures. Though I’m sure there are some youtube videos that are better. Let me know if you have any questions, I’d be happy to help and I know that engine better than most techs.
And I just realized I have a handful of pictures of the timing tool setup, if you want them.
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AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> PetarVN, GLI Guy, now with stupid power
03/28/2016 at 02:45 |
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Meh. Get one. I’ll help for cheap.
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CAR_IS_MI
> PetarVN, GLI Guy, now with stupid power
03/28/2016 at 02:51 |
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“Needs a 2011 or newer M156 with upgraded head studs to prevent catastrophic engine failure”
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CAR_IS_MI
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
03/28/2016 at 02:53 |
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I’m going to see what my local AMG shop wants to do it so I can focus on other tasks too. But if I end up losing my common sense and attempting myself I will most certainly be requesting pics and / or assistance. HAHA!
Bluecold
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
03/28/2016 at 03:16 |
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holy shit oppo delivers in a big way
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AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 03:35 |
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Cool. Did you happen to glance at your cam lobes while you were in there?
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AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> Bluecold
03/28/2016 at 03:36 |
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Isn’t oppo great!
Sovereign, Purveyor of Coupes
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
03/28/2016 at 05:18 |
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This is best oppo.
OPPOsaurus WRX
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 08:36 |
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thats kinda the same issue I ran into when trying to stop my oil leak. I’d have to remove the cams as well and thats way beyond my ability, especially with an interference engine
DoYouEvenShift
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 08:47 |
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Should look like ~this when your done lol, kidding not kidding.
Serisously though that looks like a pain, good luck man.
d15b
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
03/28/2016 at 10:26 |
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Saying “thanks!” on behalf of all Oppo!
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CAR_IS_MI
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
03/28/2016 at 11:05 |
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I did, I saw no signs of scoring or unusual wear.
Eric K
> Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief
03/28/2016 at 11:21 |
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Hello fellow v10er
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AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> CAR_IS_MI
03/28/2016 at 14:05 |
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That’s good. It always worries me because those cams are about a grand each.
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CAR_IS_MI
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
03/29/2016 at 01:22 |
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Yeah, depending on the cost I am quoted to fix this, it may end up in someone else hands as a still cheap S63
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AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> CAR_IS_MI
03/29/2016 at 01:48 |
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Understandable. Full pop at my shop would be around $1700 (including parts, without removing the heads) off the top of my head, not including cams and lifters if those are needed (I know you said they looked fine but I assume you only looked at one side, and I find it’s best to expect the worst sometimes). But IIRC it’s a very easy job to discount because most of the cost is in labor, I think we charged a friend of mine (though he wasn’t a friend yet) around $1200 for the whole thing.